Sculpting Research | makeupexploration

Sculpting and Painting research

Fig. 151

Techniques -

Start by creating lines reguarly spaced but with some variation. Cross hatch the opposite way to give a series of lines.
These lines can be buffed back with a course sponge or plastic brush. Gives a nices smoothed off texture. Even mesh is flat so add small lumps within the lines.- brush back with same stiff plastic brush or sponge. this will soften it out without obliterating basic form.
Lines that get lost in the buffing can reestablish lines
Blow torch can be used to soften the edges of the scales. be aware as it can melt the clay too much if used for too long.

SCALE STAMPS -
Scale stamps can be created using brace tubing of various sizes by making own tools.
Cut brass pipe with pipe cutter.
Crimp middle with pliers
Squash and distort as round shape is too regular.
Create various shaped tubing.
Car body filler is pushed into tubing and leave to set. Once hardened used a dremel to create inversion (use a respirator - ventilation)
Press into clay. will give a variety of scales without having to carve out individually.
Do the same through sheets of plastic. which will give a smoother effect.

Bray pencils in rough shapes on the face and then roughs in the shapes with clay. he then works into the clay using the tools he made earlier.
Polishes back with soft brush and IPA over the sclaes to smove them. Uses slurry to blend the effect into the skin more. Initially used brush and then switched to a syringe to apply small blobs. This saves time as you do not need to individually sculpt them.
Leave to dry over night

PAINTING

Bray sprays surface with release Agent. He uses ULtra 4 Epoxy Parfilm Mould release
He then uses bald cap plastic thinned down with acetone at a ratio of 1:6. He uses a different ratio from the 3:1 we use at uni, I am interested to find out why - I wonder if it depends on the bald cap plastic you use.

Sprays acrylic paint ink using airbrush - sandy colour for base. He then flecks on greens and browns

He uses acrylic inks with mix of water and alcohotol to speed up drying time. darker green ink to follow lines of sculpt. continued painting into the area where nothing is sculpted to help it blend.

Uses a brush to get into some areas for detail
Dry brushes the high points using the base coat.
Useful for creating depth without making piece overly thick or heavy.

I found this tutorial really useful. When I intially watched it, I was daunted by the idea of making my own tools however we have since had a tutorial in making our own tools and I now understand how to do it. I think the scales he produces are really effective.It is also useful to know that you can inject the slurry as I would not have thought to do this.

I found the painting part of the tutorial very useful. It is interesing that he uses acrylic inks as I had also not thought to use these. It would be interesting to try them.

PAINTING SILICONE

There are different materials which can be used to paint silicone pieces including - Pax paint, silicone paints, rubber cement, water colour, oil paints
These can be applied using different techniques - with brushes, sponges, flicking with a chip brush, air brushing
It is best to pre colour silicone pieces, giving your appliances a base to paint onto as the silicone is translucent - pieces can be precoloured using pigment or flocking.
Nothing sticks to silicone except silicone - silicone appliance must be painted with silicone paint (silicone which has been pigmented and thinned for application with airbrush or fine bristled brush). Caulk or general use silicone sealant can be used for this and thinned with low odour white spirit.

Fig. 151.1

Fig. 151.2 Fig 151.3

Spatola uses white PAX paint as a base on the sculpture and then skin illustrator is used over the top for mottling, skin textures and patterns. I really like the scaled look of the creature as well as the colours used.

Brian Wade demonstrates using 'the power of the X' to create scales.

Fig. 152