CLARE HEDGES
Wig Templates
Wig Templates
Step 1 -
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Various ways to prep the hair; by wrapping to the crown, wrap into pincurls (salient/achor points) and wrap to crown
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Consider style of the wig
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It is important to also consider the way that you have put the hair up when making a template by making diagrams or by taking notes so that when the wig is put on, it fits the same way that the template did
Step 2 -
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Wrap the clingfilm around the head, using 1 large piece of cling film rather than multiple pieces.
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It is important not to cellotape the clingfilm too tightly to the head as it should come on and off easily
Step 3 -
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Make a note of measurements - these are not used for construction but to check the fit after the construction
Measurements -
1) Circumference of the wig
2) Over the head from the hairline from the nape or crease of the neck
3) Nape width
4) Top of ear to corner of the nape
5) Ear to ear over the top of head
6) Ear peak to ear peak, across the hairline
7) Temple to Temple across the face
8) Across the back of the head
Step 4 -
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Cut the ears out of the template and adjust till it fits properly again - tape the excess at the back
Step 5 -
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Marking the hairline using a sharpie - always have 2 different colours with you incase you make a mistake
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Mark the centre front
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Mark the circumference and cellotape over the makings again
Step 6 -
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Hair Sampling - Take 2 colour swatches -
- For short hair, take a razor a grade down from the hair ut and collect small shavings and cellotape them to chart
- For longer hair, use a razor to collect small sample at back of the hair and one from the top of the head, hair should be 70% of darker shade and 20% of lighter shade
Blocking a Lace front wig template
Step 1 - Prepping the block
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It is a good idea to use cellotape all over the block, so that you can mark it if necessary
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Use tissue paper to pad the block
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In industry you will always keep a master copy of the template
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Draw on the 3 part foundaton lines and cellotape to seal - allow for where partings in the wig will be
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Ensure lines are even and the left and right sides mirror each other
Lace front space
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6 - 8cm on foundation net at the centre point of hairline.
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At points, the line will only be 3-4c, from the hairline - line will be even across the head
Foundation Net space
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7-8 from lace front line - keep this even. This should be 7cm from the nape - about 1cm less under the ear
Caul Net Space
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Circle drawn on crown of the head
STE
Step 2 - Constructing nets
Order of construction -
1)Foundation Net
2) Caul Net
3) Lace Front
Foundation Net -
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Starting with the foundation net, block the net around the circumference bind. Fold the net in half to find the middle to make sure it is equal. Unfold it, and start by pointing the mid point of the foundation net from the top front. Place points in pairs from front to nape area. The foundation net should overlap to make a central seam at the centre of the nape.
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Pin just behind the lines drawn on head
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Whip the overlap at the base of the head, you will need to do it twice, at the overlap points.
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Cut the excess from the bottom of the net to 1.5cm and in the Caul and Front Lace areas
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Fold the excess upwards and block pin it to the block (so the wig does not fray as this will destroy the wig)
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Whip any excess upwards so that its all flat
Caul Net
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You must place so that is has a horizontal bar across the back of the head, so the hair can be knotted straight backwards and looks natural.
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Should be pinned at North/South/East/West points
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Due to the circular shape, excess netting will need to be darted.
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Always fold the darts in the direction that you will brush the hair in (usually down and outward)
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Trim the excess net, leaving 1cm beyond the area. This can be done either before or after whipping the darts
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Whip the foundation net and caul net together in 2 places, at the edge of the Caul net and on the line where the caul net is drawn on the block
Lace Front
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Find the middle, needs to be flat at the front/face
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Pull the lace right round and overlap the foundation net by 1cm
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If necessary cover sideburns
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Do not pin in the front of the lace because they will mark/damage it
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Start in the middle and lay the front flat
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There will be darts in the lace front, however you need to make sure that they are not going into hairline.
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Need to fold darts backwards horizontally rather than vertically down, because of the way the hair will be brushed backward
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Whip along the foundation net line and again 1cm back
I found this workshop quite tedious and frustrating as I struggle to get my head around the process of wig construction. I would like to have a better understanding of this technique however wigwork is not something I wish to specialise in as I do not enjoy the process.
This was the result of the net construction workshop.