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POSTICHE RESEARCH

APPLYING FACIAL POSTICHE

This is particularly useful as I will be creating eyebrows for my portrait. 

Eyebrows

 

  •  Inside corner of brow is a bit sparse and grows straight up and down or may angle towards nose
     

  •  Hairs begin to angle away from nose at a 45-degree angle

 

  • - Two thirds of the way along the eyebrow, the growth direction often splits in two, with the top hairs angling downwards at 45-degree angle and the lower half angling up at 45-degree angle. I did not realise this and I would have benefited from this.

 

  • This lace direction chart is a helpful and clear way to see in what direction hairs on certain postiche should go. The eyebrow and the moustache are helpful for my project.

Moustaches - 
 

  • Hair is much thicker under each nostrol. Hairs begin to angle away from nose at 45-degree angle
     

  • Hairs get either get thinner towards the mouth or stay the same thickness.
     

  • Many moustaches follow the shape of the mouth and curve down slightly at the corners. Hair at corners of mouth is usually thinner and grows straight down
     

  • Moustache hair in real life is often a bit redder than the hair on the rest of the head.
     

  • ​When making the moustache, it should be a little smaller than the area it has to fit in. 
     

  • ​Leave room for the length of the trimmed hair - e.g. knots should be at least a quarter of an inch above the upper lip so that there is room for the hair at the bottom to hang down.

Side burns
 

  • Change of texture where sideburn begins. Hairs grow down and slightly back toward ear

 

  • As hair moves down jawline, they angle back more reaching a 45-degree angle. There is usually a clean strip of skin between sideburn and ear.

 

  • Back of sideburn (closest to ear) is usually thicker than the hair near cheek
     

  • ​Bottom of the side burn often angles up and down vertically - can be thick here or much thinner depending on how hairy the person is in general
     

  • ​​This diagram shows the direction to knot the hairs when creating sideburns.


 

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This diagam shows the direction of hairs for eyebrows, moustache, goatee and most clearly, for a beard.

The hairs for a beard are directed downwards apart from under the jaw where they are directed upwards.

 

 

  • ​Paint a thin layer of spirit gum to the area where the postiche will be. 

 

  • ​When applying eyebrows, paint the spirit gum above and below the eyebrow. Spirit gum should not be applied directly to the eyebrow as it will be very uncomfortable for the model and difficult to remove. The eyebrow should have been templated and made with this in mind, so that there is extra space to glue the edges.
     

  • Place the piece on the layer of spirit gum and ensure it is not crooked. Use a clean powder puff to press the piece in to the glue - this will also remove excess glue. 


Moustache
 

  • ​Apply the moustache last. Paint thin layer of spirit gum above the upper lip and tap it until it is sticky. Ask model to smile which will strech out their upper lip. Position the moustache and press it into the glue. Use a clean powder puff to once again press and remove the excess glue.

 

Beards

 

  • Position beard on actors face before applying spirit gum
     

  • Apply spirit gum thinly to the skin on the chin aream tap the spirit gum with finger until it is tacky. 
     

  • ​Adjust position of the beard for models comfort before pressing it down with a powder puff.
     

  • ​When securing beard in front of ears, lift actors own hair and stick the lace underneath.
     

  • Comb down models own hair to hide the 'join'. If colours are different use a toning colour to blend the beard into the hair/wig.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All of the above are available from: Ruskai, M. Lowery, A. Wig Making and Styling: A Complete Guide for Theatre and Film 

CUTTING AND DRESSING POSTICHE

 

 

 

  • Leave the postiche securely on the block 
     

  • Decide how long the hair should be and give the piece an initial cut that leaves the hair a bit longer than the final look. 

  • Styling facial hair can be done using tiny rollers or perm rods if hair is long enough. 

 

  • More commonly, facial hair is styled using Marcel waving tongs.

 

  • It is important to test the heat of the tongs before use as the tongs can get incredibly hot and will burn the hair if too hot. Tongs can be tested on a piece of hair similar to that used in the piece or on a piece of paper. 
     

  • When styling hair, hold iron so that thumb and forefinger are on one side of the handle while your third and fourth finger control the other side of the handle. 

 

  • Your third and fourth finger will control the opening and closing of tongs.

 

  • Curl the hair in small sections in the direction that you want the hair to lay

 

  • Once the hair has been tonged, comb through the hair with a fine toothed comb. Spray with a hair lacquer if necessary to keep hair in place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CLEANING FACIAL POSTICHE

  • Place piece on muslin cloth. 
     

  • Use a wig cleaning brush soaked in acetone to press the adhesives out of the lace and onto the towel. A toothbrush can be used instead. Do not brush the lace hard or you will tare it. 

 

  • Use brush cleaner to remove any make up on lace

 

  • Move lace to a clean piece of towel and repeat until lace looks clean.

 

  • Allow the hair piece to dry out thoroughly before re-dressing it.

 

 

 

LAYING HAIR

Delamar, P. (1994). The Complete Make Up Artist: Working in film, fashion, television and theatre. 2nd Edition. Cengage Learning Vocational.

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