CLARE HEDGES
MAKE UP ARTIST
POSTICHE BEARD.





Important points about beard postiche
- Single knotting for body pieces
- Beards often have 2 or more colours
- Beard and moustache must always be separate pieces
- With false beards, you would not go lower than adams apple as it restricts movement
We attempted to whip first with a piece of Tutu material as it is cheaper to practice on. We also used black nylon thread as it is easier to see.
I found this really difficult to begin with. I was able to knot the first hole however I really struggled to understand how to create the continuous running knot.
I eventually got the hang of it however made I made the dart much too small.
WHIPPING -
This process creates 'darts' in the wig lace which help to fit the beard to the actor/models face.
We then repeated this but with wig lace and clear nylon thread rather than the back thread. I understood the technique by this point and managed to create this dart relatively quickly.
However this time I created the dart too big and instead of being a dart suitable for a beard postiche, it would have been more suited to a wig.
After a lot of frustration, I finally got the hang of whipping.


TEMPLATE
- Clingfilm under nose, over mouth and around head (with someone holding the clingfilm at the back)
- Cellotape clingfilm
- Use marker to and draw from hairline
- Draw down to where the adams apple would be
- Under lip check shape 'W' shape varies from person to person.
- Feather edge - do not want hard edge
- Take models
measurements
-
Top of side burn to pivot point on jaw (in inches or Cms)
-
Point of jaw to center of chin along jaw line
-
Under side of lip to adams apple (measured to fit face)
I accidentally forgot to mark the adams apple and then went too far downwards under the adams apple. I corrected it as soon as I realised.
- We then cellotaped along the bottom edge and padded from the top using tissue.
- Lace needs to be flat - horizontal line on chin
- Pin at nose top, left and right ear and both sides of pivot.
- Darts fall under jawline (excess material will need to be trimmed)
- Pin under chin
- Darts fold towards center.
These are my two finished darts which I feel were sucessful.
FACIAL POSTICHE - BEARDS
Beards:
-
Beards often have more than 2 colours in them
-
Beard and moustache postiche should always be separate, allowing for articulation of the jaw
-
With false beards, you would not go lower than the adams apple as it restricts movement
Beard Templates:
-
Cling film over mouth and around head, with someone holding the clingfilm taught at the back of the head
-
Cellotape clingfilm
-
Use marker pen and draw from hairline
-
Draw down to where adams apple would be
-
Check the shape under the lip. Often a 'W' shape but this varies from person to person
-
Feather edge on cheek line as do not want a hard edge
-
A lighter colour could perhaps be used on edge
-
Take models measurements - Top of side burn to pivot point of jaw - Inches/cms
-
Then remove excess clingfilm which has no cellotape on. Template should hold shape.


This is my practice at a beard template. I initially drew along the jaw line (in the second image) however I realised and drew down near the adams apple instead.
Preparing lace to make beard:
-
Pad block out with cotton wool/toilet roll/kitchen roll - do not dampen the padding as this will create mould.
-
Cellotape along bottom edge and stuff from the top
-
Lace needs to be flat - with lace horizontal on the chin
-
Hammer point into right and left ears. Point at both sides of pivot (hammer point upwards).
-
Darts fall under the jawline
-
Point under chin
-
Darts are folded toward the centre and pinned in place.
-
If the triangular area is too big then create 2 darts instead of 1


This was Sara's demonstration of a Dart.
This was my first attempt at a dart. We were using black nylon thread to begin with as it is easier to see however white thread would usually be used. My dark is a little too small. I struggled to get the hang of 'darting' however eventually managed it. 'Darts' are created by making a running knot along the edge of the dart to create a triangle shape.